Outboard Motor Repair Outboard Motor Repair  

Outboard Motors

Power Heads

Lower Units

Props

Repair Manuals

Controls, Steering

Trim/Tilt

Power Tilt/Trim

Parts

Outboard Motor Repair


Chrysler
Evinrude
Force
Honda
Johnson
Mariner
Mercury
Minn Kota
Nissan
OMC
Suzuki
Yamaha
2 Cycle Outboard Motors
2 Stroke Outboards
4 Cycle Outboards
4 Stroke Outboards
Aftermarket Outboard Parts
Boat Wont Plane
Bolts
Brackets
Carburetors
Cavitation
Choke
Coils
Compression
Condensors
Controls
Cooling
Cowling
Crankshafts
Cylinders
Diagrams
EFI
Electrical
Engine Cleaner
Engine Smoke
Exhaust
FICHT
Fins
Flywheel
Fouling
Fuel Pumps
Fuel Systems
Fuel Tanks
Gaskets
Gauges
Gear Cases
Generators
I/O
Idle
Ignition
Impellers
Inverters
Kill Switch
Leaks
Lower Units
Lubrication
Manuals
Oil
Oil Injection
Oil Mixture
Old Outboards
Outboard Engine Blocks
Outboard Inboard
Outboard Maintenance
Outboard Motor Prices
Outboard Propellers
Paint
Parts
Pistons
Power Loss
Power Packs
Powerheads
Primer Bulb
RPM
Repair Tools
Reverse
Running Lean
Running Rich
Runs Hot
Sea Drives
Sealants
Shafts
Shifter
Skegs
Spark Plugs
Specs
Spring Maintenance
Starter Motors
Starting Problems
Stators
Steering
Synthetic Oil
Tachometers
Tillers
Tilt Trim
Timing
Trim Tabs
Twin Outboards
V6
Voltmeter
Water Pumps
Winterization
Wiring
Year

Battery question

slapshotjh Hi,

I have a 1996 Yamaha 200 Salwater Series II on a 23 ft Century cc. I need to replace the batteries, on this boat, I am the second owner. They do not appear to be the orignial batteries.

For this size motor, what type of battery (size, CCA) do I need for starting? The boat has running lights, ff, GPS, no trolling motors. I have two batteries now. One is a deep cycle, the other would appear to be for starting. One is holding a charge right now. The boat works fine, unless I let it sit, then there is not enough juice to crank the engine to life.

Is 600 cranking amps enough, or do I need the bigger battery for starting?

Thanks,

Jon
2002-05-20
djohns19 slapshot,

How are you batteries connected now? If they work together, they should be the same unless you have dual charging outputs on your engine or an isolator of some sort??

You can get dual purpose starting/deep cycle.
2002-05-20
slapshotjh I took the battery that was dedicated to starting to the local auto parts store. They ran a test on it, and it came up bad. I bought a dual purpose marine battery. It is rated at 865 cca with 210 min. reserve. Should this be enough?

The other battery, the deep cycle marine battery is ok. I will be putting it back in. I have a dual battery switch. Should I just leave it on the 'both' setting all the time? The batteries were connected to this switch.
2002-05-20
steve forsythe i have asked this question on this board a hundred times and have never understood the answer. I have a battery switch with 1, 2, all, and off. I still dont know if i start it on all, what should i switch it to to run WOT then troll for hours. I sometimes switch it to 1 after starting and it works fine. There are times when i have to charge the batteries with a charger which means to me some are not getting charged. Other times i leave it on 'all' for the whole day. Is this bag/wrong? I have 1 starter battery and 2 combo batteries. I get so confused about this issue. 2002-05-21
kwk I've got the same question about where to set the dual battery switch, but I couldn't find a previous post on it. Will someone please take a try at explaining this? 2002-05-21
oldboat1 Slapshot -- 865 cca is a powerful battery. I use a 900 cca on my inboard.

I would stick with the 800-900 cca in a replacement, and get a combined starting/deep cycle. I bought mine at Boat US (little over $100, I think). I would also use t
2002-05-21
slapshotjh Oldboat -
Thanks for the reply. Now the boat won't start ARRGGH! Brought it back to the place I bought this AM and asked them to take care of the no-start condition.

As far as the battery switch goes, what position should it be in? Is it ok to leave the dual battery switch in the "both" setting? Or should I alternate back and forth between operating and starting on the two batteries?

Thanks Again
2002-05-21
mooseo I just posted a similar thread (accidentally) on the general forum, but I'll move my question over here since it is similar...

I am thinking of a new setup for my two battery system on my 17' whaler w/ 90hp johnson.

What I have now
2002-05-21
JimH Indeed a very technical subject. I'm not an expert in battery design or installation - but I (like every other power boater) want ot know the best power rig for my electrical needs. There are many good sources from experts (you'll have to search) and the 2002-05-21
oldboat1 If you have dissimilar batteries, and your main concern is charging both simultaneously from one alternator, I would really suggest a battery isolator -- with or without the switch(es) (and I would personally do it without the switches). Without an isolator, different batteries and charge rates, etc., will present problems in insuring both batteries are charged.

I think West Marine has been active in marketing a "combiner" which probably is essentially an isolator. They seem to do so with the additional recommendation for one or more battery switches --looks to me like you would have to be an electrical engineer to install and maintain the system. There was a prior thread on this. Do a search under "battery combiner" or something similar, and you might hit on a raft of additional information.

Good luck....and keep it simple....
2002-05-21
petryshyn Batteries batteries batteries, what a neat subject...

The reason there is so many questions and opinions on the subject is cause there are so many variables in how they are used...

In general......

>Don't leave unmatche
2002-05-21
oldboat1 Well, I'll confess I just bought a battery switch for my inboard. I bought the one with the alternator field disconnect because I'm absolutely sure I will screw up at some point. I haven't installed it yet.

My experience with an isolator was
2002-05-21
Mumblerone I'll need a little help on this answer...here goes. Take a look at the dual battery switches. It clearly states "all" is for starting only...switch back when running or serious damage may occure to the electrical system. As I undestand it the diods(?) in the rectifier will be damaged and you'll have to replace rectifier ($200.00 plus). Comments! [Roll Eyes] (I have Perko switches) 2002-05-21
Mumblerone PS: I'm talking twin 175 HP Evinrudes using dual bateries with Perko switches... 2002-05-21
Mumblerone PS: I'm talking twin 175 HP Evinrudes using dual batteries with Perko switches... [Confused] 2002-05-21
petryshyn Mumblerone

As previously stated, there are many variables out there for batteries and charging systems. As a rule of thumb, don't use the O/B charging system to recharge "deeply discharged" batteries, as it will take too long, and the battery w
2002-05-22
mooseo Thanks schematic; looks like great advice. I do tend to charge my house battery off the outboard only because the boat doesn't sit somewhere that I can leave a charger hooked up to shore power. Taking the battery home to charge it means leaving the bilge pump offline.

Do you recommend having voltage meters installed on each battery, or is that overkill... I can keep an old mult-meter on the boat, which is just a bit inconvenient since I have to get under the console to hook them up.
2002-05-22
Mumblerone Schematic, you bring up an interesting point. I have twin 175 HP Evinrudes Ocean Pros, 1996. I just replaced both voltage gauges...as last year finished up I noticed that both were reading well over 18 volts and the gauge at rest would, when motor is shut off, read 12-14 volts. At this point I'm sure they were broke. I tested voltage of both at battery, the voltage was fine. I also noticed that near the end of season the port battery had to be recharged. I installed a new rectifier/regulator as the problem occurred (Port only). This did not help or hurt (except for my wallet). Can you expand on the charging thing...or the cause of my problem? 2002-05-22
kwk I had heard that you should never change the battery switch when the engine is running because it could burn out the system. That makes it tough to start with "all" and then switch. Is there a danger if I switch the dial while running? 2002-05-22
Mumblerone The direction say it's OK to swith after the motors start. Just do not run in "ALL". But then again , I'm the guy with the problem...I'd like to hear more on this topic. Maybe we'll have to start a new 'thread'. 2002-05-22
Mumblerone The direction say it's OK to swith after the motors start. Just do not run in "ALL". But then again , I'm the guy with the problem...I'd like to hear more on this topic. Maybe we'll have to start a new 'thread'. [Confused] 2002-05-22
petryshyn Mumblerone

Need to know how your system is wired. How many batteries total...

>I wouldn't adjust the switch while running. If it open circuits while rotating it, even for a second, it could easily damage electronics. Do the switching before starting.....

*a voltmeter across each battery isn't necessary if one is connected properly .....The selector switch will connect to each battery appropriately. [Smile]
2002-05-22
Mumblerone Here we go...the boat, a 1996 Boston Whaler with twin Evinrude 175 HP Ocean Pros. It is factory wired with two batteries. There are two 'Perko' Switches mounted on a panel, one above the other. Each switch has four positions 'OFF', '1','2', and 'ALL'. 2002-05-22
petryshyn Selecting the switch on a 2 switch system is ok when running (one battery is always connected) just don't select either to OFF when running!!!

The only way to check the voltmeters is to compare their readings with a known good voltmeter. Digital meters work well for this. even cheap ones.

Sounds like you have a charging system problem on one engine. Take the boat for a run for several minutes, and while under-way, check the voltage across the battery with a hand held meter. If voltage is less than 13v, you have stator, rect/reg, wiring problems...... It wouldn't hurt to have the batteries checked as well. A bad battery can also drag the voltage down:)
2002-05-22
russthemuss My 2 cents worth.
Dont even bother hooking up the trolling or house batteries to the charging system. 1,2 and off should be for starting batteries only.Not deep cycle.Run on 1 or 2 but not all.I cant see this damaging anything but the whole purpose o
2002-05-23
Boatist I will start with battery switches. There are two types, with alternator field disconect and without. If it has a alternator field disconnect you can switch it while running. If it does not have a alternator field disconnect and you switch it while runnin 2002-05-23
Mumblerone Thanks guys it all makes more sense now. We'll see how it goes this year I don't expect any problems. Just wanted to get a few things straight in my head. [Smile] 2002-05-23
tesmel As an avid fisherman and boater I have designed and tested a device called a "Phase Charger" that will solve all your on board multiple battery charging requirements. Since installing one on my boat, I now concentrate on catching that trophy walleye inste 2002-05-24
Tracy Coleman tesmel
One question on point(11). How many hundred miles would you have to run to have "both batteries charged optimally" when you run the trolling motor
battery(s) dead trolling all day?
Backfire [Wink]
2002-05-24
Boatist tesmel
When the big trolling battery is dead and you turn the key you will discharge the starting battery to the trolling battery and it would take most outboards motors 20 hours to recharge that trolling battery. Also the relay better be fully sealed or it would be a inginition sorse (Spark) for gas fumes form batteries or gas. I will never buy one.
2002-05-25
petryshyn Backfire hits it on the head.....O/B charging systems are not robust enough and running times are way too short to charge a troller battery set thoroughly. Unless you are running an inboard with a decent alternator and the return time from the fishing hole is atleast an hour, the batteries will never be up in charge. Secondly, the feature of low voltage drop as compared to a isolation diode (.6V)is not applicable with unregulated charging systems, as voltage is something we have too much of.....

*In my opinion, nothing beats a selector switch, shore charger, and common sence.....
2002-05-27
tesmel I would like to respond to all the questions, and not so favourable comments about my "Phase Charger". I understand the reluctance and sarcasm, as with anything new there is always questions.
2002-05-27

If you would like to post your own question for the experts just click on
the Boating Forums tab at the top of the page or click here!

Disclaimer: iboats.com provides this content for the education and benefit of all boating enthusiasts.
We cannot, however, take responsibility for individual postings, nor can we verify the accuracy of any posting.
Please use any information provided from individuals with great care and read any applicable manuals or safety instructions.
Also, if you determine that a posting is inaccurate or offensive in any manner, please use the Contact Us email form found below.

If you would like to post your own question for the experts just click on the Boating Forums tab at the top of the page!


Outboard Motors

Power Heads

Lower Units

Props

Repair Manuals

Controls, Steering

Trim/Tilt

Power Tilt/Trim

Parts

Outboard Repairs | Boats | Outboard Motors | Boat Dealers
Boat Covers | Boat Propellers | Boat Repair | Marine Engines | Outboard Forum Directory
Terms of Use | Privacy Practices | Legal Notices

1-800-869-1686 (Toll Free)
001-801-571-0071 (International Calls)
Copyright © 1999-2009 iboats, inc. All rights reserved.